Waqrapukara The Horned Fortress
James Bustamante is Native to New York but born to Peruvian parents. He has been traveling throughout Latin America since early 2003 and finally made his home in Peru. James has made his way by eating and traveling through almost every country in Central and South America.
Last Updated on April 8, 2024 by James Bustamante
As the iconic Inca stronghold of Machu Picchu experiences an influx of visitors in early 2024, travelers might consider exploring a lesser-known ancient Peruvian marvel called Waqrapukara. Not as a replacement for visiting the Inca citadel but as an added destination, at least for now.
WaqraPukara and other Unknown Marvels of Peru
The common saying goes that if there is at least one destination to be seen in South America, it should be Machu Picchu. Yet, Peru is a treasure trove of stunning and enigmatic archaeological gems, urging the intrepid traveler to venture beyond the usual this year. The Colca Canyon, Kuelap, or the various Huacas along the coastline can be just as impressive as the Incan complex. Adding to these marvels are even lesser-known places that should be on everyone’s bucket list.
One hidden gem is Waqrapukara. Situated approximately 80 miles (130 kilometers) southeast of Machu Picchu in the Cuzco area, Waqrapukara, translating to “horned fortress” in Quechua, perches at an altitude of around 13,500 feet (4,100 meters), towering 5,600 feet (1,700 meters) over Machu Picchu. Its lofty position offers unparalleled panoramic views that eclipse those of any other South American spectacle.
Despite its proximity, about 37 miles (60 kilometers), to Cuzco, the revered Inca capital and a nexus for tourism, Waqrapukara has remained a well-kept secret, largely unknown even among the locals until very recently.
Sara Román, an entrepreneur based in Cuzco, reminisces about her childhood in the 80s in Sangarará, the village adjacent to Aqokunka where the trail to the fortress originates. The trek spans between two to four hours on foot. “During my high school years, our Peruvian history classes spanned various cultures – Nazca, Moche, Chavín, Inca, among others. Our teacher briefly mentioned Waqrapukara’s existence nearby,” she reflects. “However, the site’s significance or its history was never delved into. Curiosity was there, but the chance to explore never presented itself.”
A Remote Destination in Peru
Given its minimal mention in educational settings, Román didn’t perceive anything noteworthy about the area. Tourism is a relatively new development in the region, with international visitors only beginning to explore in the past decade. For her family and her community, navigating the mountains was part of their daily existence, not a form of recreation. Their journeys were not for relaxation or to understand Inca history.
Román shares a memory: “I remember traveling to Santa Lucía, a village roughly 5 kilometers south of Waqrapukara, as a child. I went with my aunt and her donkeys to gather potatoes and corn and to trade items like onions, sugar, and coca leaves. Back then, the journey was arduous; no roads existed, and it could take as long as eight hours to reach our destination.” It wasn’t until the previous year that she explored Waqrapukara for the first time. “The experience was enchanting, particularly the breathtaking natural scenery,” she reflects.
Like other pre-Columbian sites in Peru, the true essence of Waqrapukara remains shrouded in mystery. The fortress showcases architectural features and alterations that are characteristically Inca. However, scholars, like Óscar Montúfar from the National University of San Antonio Abad in Cuzco, suggest its inception could be traced back even further than the Incas, perhaps to the Canchis, a warrior civilization predating Inca rule. Montúfar highlights, “Findings of Canchis pottery, dating back to around 800 AD, have been unearthed here. Moreover, recent explorations around Waqrapukara and near Pomocanchi point towards a significant Wari influence.”
Montúfar elucidates the site’s rich tapestry of cultures: “Archeological remnants from the Pukará, the most ancient, followed by Tiwanaku, the Wari, the Canchis, and later the Incas, have all been discovered here. The towers we see today predominantly belong to the Inca era.”
A Sacred Place From Pre- Incan Times
Montúfar posits that Waqrapukara didn’t serve as a dwelling or a military stronghold, but rather, the terraces at its base were ceremonial spaces, likely used for rituals and offerings. “With the arrival of the Incas, the site was sanctified, yet it had already held spiritual significance for rites and pilgrimages in pre-Inca times,” he maintains.
Its unique architectural feature further hints at the site’s sacred nature: door frames with triple jambs. While the classic trapezoidal shape is standard in Inca architecture, the nesting of three frames within each other is a trait reserved for spaces of religious importance.
“These triple-jamb doors are a rarity, exclusive to sites of profound historical and spiritual value. Notably absent even in prominent locations like Cuzco, Písac, Ollantaytambo, or Machu Picchu, they are seen in ancient, sacred sites such as the Island of the Moon. Here, Inca mythology narrates that Viracocha, the creator deity, positioned the moon in the skies above Lake Titicaca,” elucidates Montúfar.
Waqrapukara, like other hallowed sites in Peru, is intricately woven into the fabric of Qhapaq Ñan or the Inca Trail, an extensive network of pathways that stitched together the vast Inca Empire, stretching from Colombia to Argentina.
“The expanse of Waqrapukara is marked by a constellation of archaeological treasures, including cemeteries, a labyrinth of roads intertwining with the Inca Trail, and petroglyphs, signifying its expansive nature and its strategic position for territorial oversight,” Montúfar notes. He highlights the harmonious integration of the site’s architecture with the rugged landscape, where terraces enhance the site’s visual allure and fortify its topography against erosion and landslides, ensuring the stability of the constructed platforms.
However, the site’s defining feature is its distinctive ‘horns,’ twin rock formations towering over the fortress, lending it immediate recognition. Montúfar clarifies, “Contrary to their name, these aren’t horns but are likely symbolic of llama ears, an animal commonly found along the Aqokunka trail. These aren’t curated for tourism, like the animals at Machu Picchu; instead, they thrive naturally in these elevations, ranging from 3,500 to 5,000 meters, their indigenous habitat.”
Traveling to Waqrapukara Was an Amazing Experience
Exploring the site promises a journey you’ll always remember. The round trip stretches over eight miles, and though the trail is instinctively navigable, the solitude it offers makes the guidance of a local expert a wise choice.
As you traverse the path, the landscape unveils herds of llamas, terraced Inca ruins, caves adorned with ancient petroglyphs, and, depending on the time of year, expanses of blooming flowers – a rugged, untouched panorama of sheer beauty.
“The beauty of Apurímac Canyon is unmatched, and the trail from Aqokunka is pleasantly direct. Reaching the archaeological site signifies conquering the most challenging part of the journey,” shares Cass Madden, a seasoned hiker residing in Cusco for over half a decade. She cautions that the high altitude may present challenges, recommending acclimatization in the nearby village of Sangarará and suggesting the local remedies of coca tea and coca leaf chewing.
The journey’s most mesmerizing segment unfolds as the path curves, revealing the iconic ‘horns’ of the site – a sight that transforms from a reminiscent Inca landmark up close to an almost primal, Neolithic spectacle from afar, a visual treat unlike any other in Peru.
Within the fortress lie myriad enclosures, each offering a unique frame for photography enthusiasts; hidden niches where the Incas may have placed revered mummies, and a peculiar altar-like rock where sacrifices, perhaps of llamas or more, were once made.
Waqrapukara also presents a perfect spot for camping, allowing visitors to experience the sunrise from their tents. This luxury comes without the hefty price tag often associated with witnessing the dawn at Machu Picchu. The camping area, albeit basic with minimal facilities, running water, and simple bathrooms, offers a natural haven.
“Experiencing both the sunset and sunrise here is extraordinary… and the solitude is unparalleled,” Madden enthuses. “To slumber at the base of Waqrapukara is truly a unique privilege,” she remarks.
Montúfar remains optimistic that forthcoming research will unlock further secrets of this site. While mysteries surrounding Machu Picchu, believed to be an Inca edifice from circa 1400, still linger, the actual age, original purpose, and the identity of Waqrapukara’s initial inhabitants are enigmatic chapters yet to be deciphered.
For travelers seeking the mystical allure akin to Machu Picchu but without the crowds, the secluded horned fortress of Peru beckons.
Conclusion
For more information on Waqrapukara or any other important landmarks that you would want to make part of your Peru vacation package, contact one of our travel advisors today.
References: BBC
